This is PAW’s 302 Blower motor kit. It comes complete with the items needed to put the engine together. Major components, like the heads, crank, and block are fully machined.
After the block is unpacked and mounted on an engine stand, it should be cleaned. This means using hot, soapy water and scrubbing the block and bores. Oil passages should also be cleaned with a rifle brush to make sure no debris remains. Cleaning also includes internal parts, like the crank. As the PAW guarantee states, it’s the mechanic’s responsibility to clean and inspect all parts.
PAW kits come supplied with assembly lubricant, bolt boots, and Plastigage. These items are necessary for proper assembly.
Start by installing the main bearings. Take care that the bearing back and the bearing saddles are completely clean. On Fords, the No. 3 main is the thrust. Now coat the bearing surfaces with assembly lube.
The rear main seal is easy enough to install. Just make sure the lip points toward the front of the engine. Or think of it as pointing toward the oil source.
Lower the crank into the engine and install the main caps one at a time. Before torquing the bolts, apply a light coat of lubricant (not synthetic - Fletch) to the threads. Measure each bearing for 0.002 inch of clearance with Plastigage. The main cap bolt torque is 60-70 ft. lbs. Finally, check crank thrust, which should be in the range of 0.004 to 0.008 inch.
Next the ring end gaps should be checked. A ring should be seated square in the bore and the end gap measured using a feeler gauge. An average of 0.004 inch of gap is suggested for each inch of bore diameter. For the 302’s four-inch bore, that’s 0.016 inch of end gap.
Pistons are TRW forged units (part No. L2305F) and are 0.030 inch oversized. Press-fit piston pins connect them to the rods. The rings can now be added. A dot marks the top of the compression rings, so make sure they’re installed correctly in the ring groove.
First coat the piston with oil. Then, using a ring compressor, insert the piston assembly and tap it into the bore. At the same time, guide the rod onto the journal. Rod boots eliminate the possibility of the rod bolts nicking the journal surface.
Add a piece of Plastigage and install the rod cap and torque the rod bolts to 19-24 ft. lbs. Remove the cap and check the clearance. It should be 0.003 inch. After both rods are on the journal, and torqued to specification, check the rod side clearance. It should be 0.0025 inch.
Now is a good time to install the front and rear oil galley plugs. Since they have to be liquid-tight, make sure the threads are coated with sealant.
After the B&M Street Charger cam (part No. 90770) has been coated with a moly-based cam lube, slide it carefully into the block. This hydraulic grind has been developed expressly for supercharged applications.
Now the cam thrust plate can be added. Secured by two bolts, this plate has a front and rear with the back marked. Make sure it’s correctly positioned. Also check that the oil galley plugs are screwed in far enough, so they don’t interfere with the plate.
The kit’s Milodon roller timing chain (part No. 15008) is now added. It’s critical for correct timing that the dots on the cam sprocket and crank sprocket are opposite each other.
Milodon engine accessories are used throughout. These include an engine stud kit, oil pump, pan, and if you desire, chrome valve covers.
Now install the timing cover gasket and bolt on the die-cast aluminum cover. Coat the water-pump gasket with a sealer and position, then bolt on the water pump.
The oil pan studs and gaskets are added. Add a drop of thread-locking compound to each one, so the studs won’t loosen. After installing the oil pump shaft add the pump. A Milodon oil pickup is fitted to match the oil pan. The front pan seal is added. It’s recommended that a dab of silicone be added for a leak-free joint with the oil pan.
B&M’s harmonic balancer requires special steps to install correctly. This includes heating it in boiling water for 15 minutes to expand the hub. Then coat the crank snout with oil. Apply oil to the inside of the hub after it’s removed from the water. Then, using a block of aluminum to protect the face, drive the balancer on. Fit the retaining bolt and washer and torque to 90-ft. lbs. Add Ford’s timing pointer.
Up top, the hydraulic lifters are coated with cam lube and dropped into the lifter bores.
Milodon head studs from the engine stud kit are installed. Because they pass into the coolant passages, it’s important to apply a sealer to the threads. Next comes Fel-Pro’s head gasket. Make sure the word "front" is at the front of the engine. If the gasket is reversed, coolant holes in the rear of the block will be covered (and your engine WILL overheat - Fletch).
The heads in PAW’s kits come ready to install. Valve components consist of screw-in rocker studs and guide plates.
Cylinder heads (casting No. D8OE) are open chamber and well suited in a supercharged application. Valves have been opened up to a 1.94-inch intake and 1.50-inch exhaust, while ports were left untouched. Chamber volume is 63cc. Combined with the flat-topped pistons, compression is 8:1.
The heads were lowered over the studs and torqued to specification, which is 60-75 ft. lbs. Follow the torque sequence and work up to the final figure in three steps. Drop the hardened pushrods into position. Add the rocker arms, balls, and oil them as they go together. Tighten the retaining nuts. The rocker ratio is 1.6:1.
Install the intake manifold gasket and manifold end seals and add the B&M blower intake manifold.
Now the blower gasket and blower go into place. This is B&M’s 144-cubic inch unit. It comes out of the box fully assembled.
Peering from the top of the Dick Landy Industries dyno room we see our small-block huffer. How did it do? How about 353 ft. lbs. of torque at 4000 rpm and 331 horsepower at 5500 with cast-iron heads? Who says you need a Boss 302 motor sitting under your hood?
To complete the installation, you need B&M’s adapter kit (part No. 90684 with A/C, or No. 90869 without). The kit contains a bracket and idler pulley, as well as a list of parts that must be ordered from a Ford dealer, to complete the engine front dress. The instructions also provide a template and directions on how to modify the alternator bracket.