Fuel Pump Install

Fuel Pump Install

Well you've finally reached the point where it's time for that larger fuel pump. Don't worry the install is not all that bad. Actually it's rather simple. First of all this is just a recount of my experience, its just a basic outline, you might have a harder time then I did. Anyway first of all you need to get the car up in the air, I used jackstands at all four corners but that's because I was doing other work as well. Remember all the safety stuff too; I'm sure you all know what I am talking about so I won't go into it.

Now once the car is in the air you need to relieve the pressure in the fuel lines. You can either trip the inertia sensor in the trunk then start the car and let it stall, or you can just push in the little schrader valve on the steel fuel lines up by the intake. I choose the second method as its faster and not much fuel leaks out, you might want to have a rag handy just to catch anything. Oh by the way, make sure the car is cool.

Now comes the fun stuff. Take off both back tires, its makes the job much easier. Make sure the tank is fairly empty and have a buddy there to help you. Once you have the tank empty grab a floor jack and a piece of wood. I found that a section of 2x6" about 8 inches long works well. Put the wood on the jack and raise the jack till it's about ready to touch the bottom of the tank, like I would say about 1/16" from the tank. Climb under the car now and at the front of the tank you'll see the two bolts that hold the straps. As I recall a half-inch socket with an extension will remove these. You may want to take it easy as they can rust so some WD-40 will be nice to have around too. Once the bolts start to come loose the tank will rest on the wood/jack. You can finish taking them out and swing the straps to the back of the car. Before you can lower the tank you have to disconnect the wiring for it. On my coupe the plug was just about dead center of the car behind the bumper. If you can't find it gently lower the tank about 6 inches and just trace the wires. There is also a 5/16 bolt that you have to unscrew from the passenger side of the tank that holds the filler neck in the tank. And you might as well take the bolts out for the filler neck as well (inside the filler door).

Now have your buddy hold one side of the tank as you hold the other and slowly let the tank down. When it's about a foot away from the car you'll have room to disconnect the lines. There is a separate vent line that just pulls off, and the two fuel lines. One of the lines has a connection that you'll need a fuel line disconnect tool for. You can find these at any auto parts store. The other one you just pull out a plastic clip and pull the line off. Like on our fuel filters. At this point you should also try to pull out the filler neck. It just slides into the tank through a rubber seal. It might be a bit sticky but with a little movement it will slip right out.

Now that you have it all free lower the tank totally. Once its down you can slide it out from underneath the car. Before you do anything else you want to make sure the top of the tank is clean at this point. I found that a blowgun and air compressor worked very well. I just blew all the old grit and dust off the top of the tank.

Now that the tank is clean you'll notice that it has a portion that's about 6" taller than the rest of the tank. This is where the pump is. There is a wiring plug that you have to unclip and then you can see the ring than holds the pump in. Depending on the shape of your car you might want a new one, mine was O.K. I used a wood dowel and tapped the ring a quarter turn counter clock wise to get if free.

Now you can pull the pump out. Its hanger is shaped a bit like a "Z" so you have to twist and turn it a bit but it should come out pretty easy. Once the pump is out take the sock filter off the end of it. You may need to pry it off with a screwdriver. Make note of its position though as the new sock will need to go on the same direction, otherwise it won't fit right in the tank.

Now its time to take the hanger apart. You have to first undo the wires to the pump and the little hose that connects the pump to the feed line. I had a stock pump in my car so it had crimp claps holding the hose. I cut these off with a pair of diagonal pliers (dikes). I also had to cut the factory wires as my new pump came with a different style plug, depending on your setup you may or may not have to do this. If you do have to cut the wires cut them as close to the pump as you can so you have something to work with. This should leave you with about a 6" whip.

Now undo the 4 bolts that hold the hanger together. They should be 4mm but I am not positive. Pull the old pump out and put the new one in just like the old one. Remember to include the rubber pad at the bottom of the pump. I reused the short piece of rubber line that was stock, as the one that came with my new pump didn't seem to fit correctly. Remember your hose clamps before you bolt the hanger back together.

Now you can splice your new plug on or just reuse the old connectors depending on your setup. One tip, the factory makes the wires cross so they form an "x" shape this keeps the wires from really touching one another. You should do the same when you crimp a new plug on.

Now you should be all set, put the 4 bolts in plug in your new plug and you'll have the complete hanger assembly. Push the new sock on in the correct position and you can work the pump back in the tank. Once it's in it will sit flat and you can put the ring back on and tap it back tight. Then you can reconnect the wiring clip. I took this opportunity to clean the plastic tank cover and repaint it black. Once that's all done you're ready to reinstall the tank. Before you put it in though make sure you put a little clean engine oil on the rubber seal for the filler neck. It will make it VERY easy to slip in.

Now you can have your buddy help you set the tank on the jack and start to lift it into place. Make sure the straps are out of the way. Once it's up high enough hook all the lines up, as well as the wiring, and the filler neck. Then continue to lift it the rest of the way. Bolt the straps down and then put the screw in for the filler neck on the tank and inside the filler door. Congrats you've just changed your fuel pump. Put some fuel in the tank and turn the key. You should hear the pump pick up a prime. Mine did within about 3 seconds. Turn the key off the on once more to make sure there is pressure in the lines and then let her rip...ENJOY!



You may also be interested in . . .

  • This article is for anyone with an '84-'85 Fuel Injected Mustang looking to convert to a carburetor.

  • Removal of the water pump is fairly simple, requires a decent Standard/Metric 6pt and 12pt socket set, and a few other basic hand tools.

  • Introduction:

  • Contents of Box:

    • Aero Shield, Molded Urethane, 27" x 66".
    • Installation Instructions.

    Installation Steps:

    1. Paint Aero Shield with flexible paint of the same type used for Mustang bumper covers & Classic Side Pipe Covers. [The Aero Shield can be effectively integrated if it is two-toned to match the rear bumper insert. Consider low gloss black, like the GT series, for light colors, or light argent (silver) for dark colors.]
    2. Your fuel gauge should read 1/8 or less. Gas is heavy; a light tank makes for an easier installation.
    3. Raise car. The Aero Shield can be installed on a driveway apron, jack stands are better, a hoist is best.
    4. Remove the two rear wheel/tire assemblies.
    5. Remove the black vacuum formed plastic tub from under the fuel tank:
  • When I first bought my 'Stang I always had problems with the idle. No matter what I did it always went up and down, up and down, up....uh, you get the point. After performing a full tune up, which included changing the spark plugs, plug wires, fuel filter, air filter (k&n), cap, rotor, and setting the timing and tps voltage I was disappointed to find that the car still had a lousy idle. So what's next? Try changing the idle air bypass solenoid (IAB)? I was about to, until I noticed that the throttle plate in the Throttle body was so dirty that you could barely see the edges of the plate.

  • I had my 99 Cobra intake hand ported in California. Since I live in New Jersey, I had to remove the intake so I could box it up and ship it out.

  • The only major difference between changing a Fox water pump, compared to the 94/95 SN95's waterpump removal, is the following bracket that is next to come off.