This article is for anyone with an '84-'85 Fuel Injected Mustang looking to convert to a carburetor. If you have an '86-'95 Mustang and are looking to convert to a carb then use the EFI to carburetor conversion article.
Well I have never actually done this conversion myself but this is what I have learned from others who have done this. If you just want to go to carb, then it isn't too hard on your car. If you are looking for a performance build-up at the same time then you will have to do additional work such as changing the intake, exhaust and other components. Those buildups are beyond the scope of this article. Handle those swaps just like you would on any other small block Ford engine and/or Mustang.
- Check to see if you have 2 fuel pumps, one in the tank then one on the rear frame close to the tank. Use only the one in the tank and bypass the one on the frame rail.
- As an alternative you can also use a mechanical fuel pump or an electric aftermarket pump by adding a sump to your fuel tank. To sump the tank go to the auto parts store and buy some 3/8 steel brake line that is about 12 inches long. Take down your fuel tank and remove the stock in-tank fuel pump. Leave the rubber tube that hangs down in place, measure the length from the rubber thing to the bottom of the pickup where the stock filter used to be. Then cut the tube just a bit longer and slide it into the rubber hose and use a clamp on it. Mount your new fuel pump AFTER the stock fuel filter. Now you have a home-made pickup that'll handle 400hp.
- Remove the central throttle body unit from your intake. Under it and the adapter is a mounting pad that will accept a standard 2bbl carb. If you want to convert to a 4 bbl carb then you need a new intake and a 4 bbl carburetor. If you still have the stock cam then stay with a mild intake like the Edelbrock Performer or the Weiand Action Plus.
- Hook up a Duraspark distributor from an '84 stick car using the Duraspark article I have in the tech section.
- Get a TV cable from Lokar (www.lokar.com) for a carbed AOD setup, follow the instructions included.
- Do not hook up any 12 volt item to the field wire from the alternator, especially the fuel pump. You won't have enough power to drive the circuit.
- As far as electrical changes there really are none. Once you disconnect the fuel pump the old wire can be used on the new pump or can be removed. The wiring to the injection unit can also be removed. Since none of your gauges work using the computer everything should be just fine. The only system that will probably no longer work is the cruise control. If you don't own a Chilton's manual for your car I highly recommend getting one.
That sounds like about everything and I think you will have a working carbureted setup. From there you can make mods to go faster and help get the systems all sorted out and working.