Routine Cooling System Check

Routine Cooling System Check - There are a few things you should check that have to do with the cooling from time to time that will save you alot of grief, time, and money.

There are a few things you should check that have to do with the cooling from time to time that will save you alot of grief, time, and money. Checking these simple things can prevent you having to tow your 'Stang because a cooling system part failed on the road.
Here are a few things that should should check...

  • Obviously the first thing to check is the coolant level. Open the radiator cap and make sure it's filled. Also check the level of coolant in the reservoir. While you are checking the level look at the color of the antifreeze, is it a nice green color, or is it a rust brown? If its rusty looking then its time to Flush the radiator.
  • The next thing to check is the condition of the hoses. They should be firm, not brittle and not really soft. Make sure you check the upper and lower radiator hoses, the small heater bypass hoses that go into the water pump, and the heater hoses located near the back of the engine which go into the firewall. If any hoses are really soft, cracked, glazed (shiny) or brittle then its time to go get new hoses.
  • Next you should check the belt(s). Look at both sides of the belt, are there any cracks or rips? If so its time to get a new belt. Another thing to check is the tension. If its a serpentine belt it probably has an automatic tensioner which you can't adjust. As the belt gets old it tends to stretch. There are actually a few ways to check the tension of the belt. One way is to check it with a belt tension tool. If you don't have one (if you did you wouldn't need to read this I guess) then you can do it the old fashion way. While the engine is off grab the belt and push it down firmly, it shouldn't move (deflect) anymore than 3/8 to 1/2 inch. If it's a little more you can probably make do with the belt, but if it deflects alot then its time for a new belt.
  • You should also check to make sure the thermostat is working. Make sure the engine is cold before you this. Open the radiator cap, and start the engine. The coolant should look like it's just sitting there, it might move a little. When the thermostat opens you should see the coolant start to flow. Basically if the thermostat wasn't working then you would probably know it anyway, because the engine would be over heating.
  • Check the ends of each hose. Do you see any corrosion? Usually if there is any corrosion at the end of a hose its a sign of a leak. If there's any corrosion or leaks then you might be able to tighten the clamp to stop the leaking. If the clamp isn't a screw type clamp then it might be time to change to a screw type clamp.

You may also be interested in . . .

  • The only major difference between changing a Fox water pump, compared to the 94/95 SN95's waterpump removal, is the following bracket that is next to come off.

  • Ever have one of those days? One of those days when everything seems to go wrong? You woke up late, lost the car keys, you're late for work and if that isn't enough your stang starts to piss coolant all over the place. Well it probably could have been prevented.

    Basic maintenance of the cooling system in your "Stang" will not only prevent your Mustang from leaking antifreeze all over the place but it will also prevent a blown head gasket, and other major engine damage. Many people get their oil changed often, but how many remember to change their antifreeze/coolant?

  • Removal of the water pump is fairly simple, requires a decent Standard/Metric 6pt and 12pt socket set, and a few other basic hand tools.

  • Changing your oil is one of the best things you can do for your car. You can't change it too often. There's no easier way to keep that 302 running good than changing its oil.

  • You have probably noticed some wires and a plug hanging loose by now. You can either find a way to make the neutral safety switch work, or you can do what I did.

  • When I first bought my 'Stang I always had problems with the idle. No matter what I did it always went up and down, up and down, up....uh, you get the point. After performing a full tune up, which included changing the spark plugs, plug wires, fuel filter, air filter (k&n), cap, rotor, and setting the timing and tps voltage I was disappointed to find that the car still had a lousy idle. So what's next? Try changing the idle air bypass solenoid (IAB)? I was about to, until I noticed that the throttle plate in the Throttle body was so dirty that you could barely see the edges of the plate.

  • I had my 99 Cobra intake hand ported in California. Since I live in New Jersey, I had to remove the intake so I could box it up and ship it out.